Intro to Traditional Bowhunting: How to Take the Plunge

Traditional archery takes the challenge and excitement of bowhunting to a whole other level.

July 07, 2025 By Scott Turo

Affiliate Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links. We earn from qualifying purchases.

The last elk I harvested with a compound bow was at 13 yards. That experience initiated a quest to get it done with my longbow, so I dedicated myself to practicing all off-season. The following fall, my son, who was 9 years old at the time, came to elk camp for the first time and was treated to some incredible action on our first morning of hunting.

The kill spot near camp is a trail hub halfway up the mountain on the way to the elks’ day beds in the downed timber. Spend enough time there and you will kill one. On the morning in question, we arrived just as the herd was coming through. My son was on the Hoochie Mama and I had the job of kicking the dried-out logs scattered on the ground to imitate elk activity.

Hearing the low growls of a bugle, I knew a bull was coming in fast, so I stuffed my son under a tree as I moved to the shooting lane, longbow in hand. A short-tined 6-point stepped out broadside and looked directly at my son, sitting 10 feet away and trying to hide the call. I hesitated, wondering if the bull would trample him on the way down if I shot, and missed the opportunity altogether. Getting stickbow close, whatever the outcome, is always an experience to remember.

Longbow or Recurve?

Recurve bow-longbow comparison. (Illustration by Peter Sucheski)

If you’re in the market for a traditional bow, consider opting for a modern-style bow with a metal riser, interchangeable grip and carbon limbs, or one with an eye-catching wood laminate material. The choices are plentiful.

Recurve bows are generally shorter than longbows in overall length, a bit faster and more maneuverable in tight situations. The grip on a recurve is fuller and similar to that of a compound bow, where the arrow passes the riser through the center of the sight line. Longbows have a sleeker, trimmed down grip where the arrow is shot off the shelf and passes around the thickness of the riser.

The easiest way to differentiate a recurve from a longbow is by looking at the string and its relation to the limbs when strung and in a resting position. The string will touch the limb on a recurve bow as it curves aggressively between the tip and riser; the string on a longbow will not. Some longbows have a deflex/reflex design similar to recurves, where the limbs deflect away from the riser toward the belly of the bow and then reflect toward the back of the bow. This design reduces hand shock, which tends to be more noticeable with the reflex or backset longbow limb styles.

If possible, attend a local traditional archery event where bowyers will be selling their bows, and demo a few to get a feel for the differences. Using bows sized for your measured draw length, try and get a feel for the grip and whether it fits comfortably or rests a bit off in your hand. Most bowyers include a variety of grip designs for their bows. Assess the draw cycle. Is it smooth as you draw back to your anchor point? Some bows feel like they stack the weight up quickly while others will have an even and smooth draw. Feel for excessive hand shock during the shot, which will reduce accuracy and comfort. I prefer quiet bows and feel this characteristic infers a well-tuned and tested design.

For more moderately priced options, you’ll find both recurve and longbow models from big brands like Bear, Martin and Hoyt at your local archery shop or sporting goods retailer. Online retailers have the ability to carry more options in brand and style at a range of price points. Check to see if you can demo a bow sent through the mail using a credit card deposit or return policy.

All About the Arrow

As you get more involved in the trad bow scene, you will quickly learn there is more discussion at the range or 3D course about arrows than bows. Length, spine and weight are the top discussion topics, along with brand and retailer. Just like custom bowyers, custom arrow makers exist and can produce some museum-quality wood arrows for both target shooting and hunting. Carbon arrows usually live to shoot another day after a miss, while traditional wood arrows are a bit more delicate outside of a controlled range environment.

I follow the well-aged advice of Fred Bear by using arrows that weigh about 10 grains per pound of draw weight. This puts my arrows at around 520 grains for my 52-pound longbow. A modern carbon arrow with a 400 spine is commonly recommended for this draw weight and weighs about 9.8 grains per inch. Additional weight from brass inserts and the arrow point or broadhead are used to fine-tune your projectile’s weight.

Shoot Straight

To develop confidence in your shooting skills, you have to tune your arrows to your bow. This is done by adjusting the arrow spine through incremental trimming, adding tip weight and slight nock point adjustments on the string. The physics of a shot requires the arrow to flex as it absorbs the energy from the bow and heads downrange. If tuned correctly, the arrow will recover quickly and fly true as it enters the target. If untuned, the arrow will kick to the side, corkscrew or porpoise after leaving the bow due to it being too stiff or too weak or glancing off the bow shelf or riser because the nock point is off.

Proper shooting form is the most important element in executing precise and accurate shots with traditional archery equipment. I start by checking the brace height of my bow (in elk camp I check the brace height before I head out in the morning). My bow and my confidence in it are best at 7 7/8 inches, where it is quiet, fast and draws comfortably.

Next, concentrate on your stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. The shoulder of your bow arm should be aimed at the target. Push the bow out to full draw with your bow arm as you pull back on the string. Ensure the bow is tight in the cup of your hand between the thumb and pointer finger. Use a light grip to prevent torqueing the bow by grabbing aggressively during the release.

To draw, form a “C” with your fingers and thumb; your shooting glove or finger tab will help with this. Use your first three fingers only and place the index finger over the arrow nock and the middle and ring fingers under it, or place all three under the nock. Grab the string with your fingertips just in front of the bend of the first knuckle and begin to apply pressure and draw the bow.

Using the “C” of your hand and the outside corner of your jawbone, develop an anchor point you feel comfortable with. I rest my top finger in the corner of my mouth as a repeatable anchor point. At full draw, by pushing your bow arm out and pulling your drawing arm to your anchor point, your back will be completely flexed. Now, gently lessen the pressure on your string fingers by pulling straight back to release.

When aiming, you have two choices. First is “instinctive shooting,” where, through repetition and proper form, you develop accuracy through hand-eye coordination. The other option is “gap shooting,” where the archer learns how much to hold above or below the target by estimating distance.

I choose to hunt where I can get close. For elk that means the thick stuff. Trail hubs near bedding areas in dense cover are spots that elk frequent. To get them in close, make them commit and “look around the corner” or “enter the room” to make that last fatal step. I carry a small stool to ensure I can sit in the perfect spot for extended periods to make this setup effective.

TRAD BOW ACCESSORIES

Six essentials for proficient shooting

Bowhunting accessories. — Tools of the trade (from left): Bow square, bow stringer, judo points and shooting glove. (Photo by Scott Turo)

To become proficient with a traditional bow, there are six accessories that you will use every time you shoot. A bow stringer will allow you to easily and safely put the limbs under tension to string and unstring the bow. Once strung, use a bow square to check your brace height, which is the distance between the grip and the string. Adjust the brace height by unstringing the bow and twisting the string tighter to increase or untwisting to decrease.

A shooting glove or tab and arm guard address protection from the string on the fingers and forearm during shooting. With proper form, an arm guard will only be necessary to ensure bulky clothing does not interfere with the bowstring.

A handful of Judo points from Zwickey Archery are essential. These tips are unlosable and perfect for “stump shooting,” which entails roving through the forest and targeting rotten tree stumps in situational hunting shots. Keep one arrow rigged with a Judo for small game while hunting big game.

A quiver will allow you to safely and quietly transport arrows afield. I like a strap-on-style bow quiver for hunting with my longbow, but have always been attracted to handmade back quivers with leather engraving and some traditional flair.