Fishing Nets & Gaffs: How to Stick the Landing and Avoid Disappointments

While using a landing net or a gaff may seem like a simple and straightforward endeavor, many fish are lost boatside to silly mistakes that could have easily been avoided. To greatly boost the odds of a successful outcome, employ the correct net or gaff for the job and adhere to the following basic guidelines.

NET GAINS

When it comes to netting, the single most important thing to remember is to always net fish head-first. I often see folks going for the tail instead, which invariably causes the netter to chase the hooked fish around the boat. This sometimes prompts a sudden dive or last-minute dash from the nearly spent fish that could result in a pulled hook or a broken line.

Trying to scoop up the fish from underneath or stabbing at it with the net as it swims past can also be counterproductive. Chances are you’ll miss and either pop the line or get a hook snagged in the mesh, turning what should have been an uneventful end to the catch into an unintended release that decreases the fish’s chances of survival.

Successful netting is more a matter of leading a fish into the landing net. The best strategy is to stay calm and position the opening of the net’s hoop in the path of the fish, letting the angler maneuver the rod to guide the fish into the net.

Of course, the size and strength of the net you use should be based on the species being targeted. Trying to fit a big largemouth bass into a small, teardrop-shaped net designed for trout is a recipe for disaster. Likewise, a landing net intended for bass or light inshore duty won’t fair well when you’re trying to subdue a big bull redfish, cobia or mahi.

SIZE MATTERS

I opt for a net with a 4-foot handle and a 24-inch hoop for bass but increase the hoop size to 28 inches if the net will also be used inshore. For bull reds, cobias, small and medium mahis, big groupers and snappers, I prefer a sturdier net designed for saltwater use, with a 36-inch hoop and a telescopic handle that extends to 6 or 8 feet.

If you hook a fish considerably larger than anticipated, and you’re not sure whether your net can handle its heft, you’ll be better off lifting your landing net—with the fish in it—by the hoop instead of swinging it in horizontally by the handle.

Once the fish is in the net, lift the handle and slide your hands down to get a hold of the hoop and hoist it over the gunwale. Such vertical lifting will put less strain on the landing net’s components and keep the mesh closed, preventing the fish from flopping.

Before you roll your eyes, consider that some fish are still capable of flopping vigorously when nearing their last gasp. A large one shaking wildly could propel itself back out of the net and also test the limits of its structural soundness and the tensile strength of both the hardware and mesh.

Speaking of mesh, silicone and rubberized types are much kinder on fish you intend to release and prevent hook points from penetrating the material and prolonging the safe and ethical return of your catch to the water.

PLAYING FOR KEEPS

While the use of gaffs has declined over time due to more restrictive size and bag limits and the growing trend of releasing fish, gaffing remains a very effective method for bringing fish you intent to keep into the boat.

If you’ll be targeting small tuna, king mackerel and the like, arm yourself with a straight gaff that features a tapered, 6-foot handle and a 3-inch hook. The tapered handle and small hook will move through the water with greater ease, providing the maneuverability to connect with fast-moving fish that won’t just wait around for the gaffer to line up and take his shot. For tuna of more than 50 pounds, mahi above 30 and similar heavyweights, consider an 8-footer with a beefed-up handle that may flex but won’t bend from the torque of a powerful fish. A 4-inch hook will provide a better bite when stopping sprinters in their tracks and taking them from the drink to the icebox.

GAFFING BASICS

Regardless of the chosen gaff size, proper gaffing begins with compensating for the water’s refractive properties, which distort the subsurface view and require angle adjustments on the fly to sink the gaff on a fish in the most desirable area. To put it in layman’s terms, light bends as it passes from air into water, making underwater objects appear closer to the surface than they really are. This means a gaffer must aim at a spot lower than where he sees the intended target. How much lower he should aim will vary depending on the depth of the fish and the angle of the sun. Aiming an additional third of the distance from surface to the apparent position of the target is a good rule of thumb.

Sinking the gaff close to the fish’s head but behind the gill plate is preferred, as said placement enables the gaffer to immediately gain control. After estimating the desired angle and depth, line up and extend the gaff with the hook pointing down. Next, let its weight carry the gaff down past the surface before guiding it toward the intended point of contact and pulling back to sink the gaff hook in one fluid motion. Sticking a fish near the head is not always possible. If it only gives you a good shot at its tail, stick it there and hold on. Then, as soon as you have the chance, pull the tail out of the water to take away the fish’s propulsion.

To gaff a spiraling fish, such as tuna, wait until it is heading back toward the boat to line up your shot. It helps to keep the boat going straight and barely underway, which tends to make the fish swim with the boat and stay within reach.

By the way, keeping the gaff behind the line connecting the fish and the angler is imperative at all times. It’ll prevent tangles and potential break-offs if you miss or the fish makes a sudden run.

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• This article was featured in the the April 2025 issue of Game & Fish magazine. Click to subscribe

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