I also prefer a more vertical approach on the river, when possible. This way you can pinpoint the lure on the current break and feel every bite or tick. I believe you also lose fewer lures when keeping the presentation as vertical as possible, and rivers typically eat a lot of jigs.

I like my jig to do double duty when I'm fishing rivers. While I like to tip the jig with a minnow, I also thread a scented-plastic grub body on the jighead before I slide the point of the hook through the bait's lips. The action of the grub body and the scent of the minnow will get a bite a lot quicker than a plain jig-and-minnow.

On post-spawn river walleyes the best place to drop that jig is on a riprap shoreline. With a jig you can tempt the fish that are lying on that pile of rock that's stabilizing the shoreline. Riprap is a magnet for post-spawn walleyes and the jig is the best way to get them to commit.

As I move out to the channel or fish deeper current breaks I always rely on my No. 1 post-spawn river rig: The three-way swivel setup.

The three-way swivel rig is one of the most productive techniques on post-spawn walleyes that I know of. With this rig you can set a bait or lure in front of a walleye's nose for awhile, and sooner or later they will take a bite.

I need sensitivity from that rig when I'm fishing it, so I use Berkley FireLine from the reel to the swivel. This line is ultra-sensitive so I can feel every little movement of that rig while it's on the bottom.

From the swivel for the dropper line -- the line that holds the sinker -- I tie on an 8-inch chunk of clear monofilament line in the 10- to 12-pound-test range and attach anywhere from a 3/4-ounce sinker to one a few ounces in weight. Like the jig, use the amount of weight it takes to easily get the rig down to the bottom.

On the snell -- the line that holds the lure -- I use Vanish, a fluorocarbon line, in the 8- to 10-pound-test range. The fluorocarbon is completely invisible, so it takes away a negative reaction if the walleyes are a bit line skittish.

I typically slide a few beads on the snell, a No. 3 silver blade and then some more beads before attaching a No. 2 hook. To the hook I attach a minnow.

This is the perfect rig for slipping and sliding all over the contours of a current break. You just lift the lure, move the boat and send the rig back down. The current straightens out the snell and moves the blade, which attracts the walleye that then eats the meat. It works every time.

You can slow-troll a three-way swivel rig upstream, slow-slip this rig downstream or just hold in one spot and let the rig perform its magic. Anytime you're over 10 feet deep and wanting to work a lot of different depth ranges on a break, this is the rig to use.