We now had two anchor points to adjust our position over the wreck and to overcome the boat's natural tendency to swing from side to side on a single anchor. Two anchors would also allow us to change the boat's position over the wreck by simply adjusting the lines. We let out some line until I saw a concentration of fish on the sounder and tied it off to the spring line cleat. The boat held its position perfectly.

Double anchoring is time consuming and isn't always necessary, but it is often the difference between limiting out and going home with just a few fish in the box. With the hard work done, we could start fishing, but maybe you'd like to know how we prepared for the day's activities before we ever left the dock.

Fishing success requires homework and this trip started the day before by checking fishing reports and talking with friends who had been out recently. The information I gathered indicated structure in 80 to 100 feet had been producing and a check of my log helped me come up with a few places worth trying. I selected five locations, three wrecks and two rubble areas, all located on artificial reefs that were an easy run from my home inlet. The waypoints were already in my chart plotter's memory bank. Having a game plan alleviates some of the guesswork and usually results in burning less fuel and catching more fish.

Next came a tackle check, so it was off to the basement to grab a couple of my favorite fishing outfits. Bottom-fishing is more fun and productive if you use rods and reels that are relatively light and sensitive. I prefer 7-foot, medium-action graphite rods rated for 15- to 25-pound test with reels no bigger than wide-spool baitcasters. The reels are loaded with super-braid, which enhances sensitivity and, since it's very thin, requires less weight to hold bottom.

For spring seabass, I use 30-pound camouflage-colored leader material, 1/0 beak-style baitholder hooks and a 75-pound-test barrel swivel to assemble simple high-low rigs with two or three hooks about 12 to 16 inches apart. The hooks are attached to the main line via a dropper loop that sticks out about 4 inches. Tie the loops and then slip each one through a small, plastic bead and then the hook eye. It's a good idea to put the hook point through the loop twice, twisting it between passes, which creates a figure-eight looking attachment that holds the hook out straight from the main line. At the bottom, I tie a double surgeon's loop so a bank sinker can be slipped on and off. Tie the barrel swivel at the top.

Blackfish rigs are a little different, since these fish feed right on the bottom. Use a 50-pound-test leader because blackfish like to run back into the hole they came out of when hooked. Compliment the rig with size 4 or 6 Carlisle hooks, which feature long shanks to defeat a blackfish's formidable dentures. This style hook also has a short gap, which makes it easy to fit any blackfish's small mouth.