Finally it was our turn. The guide started the kicker motor, and we nosed out into the current just above the deepest part of the pool.

In the early morning, salmon will spread out from the deepest water downstream towards the tail-out. The current here usually flows evenly, so back-trolling is an ideal way to target these salmon.

Back-trolling looks easy, but if you’re the one operating the boat, it takes some practice to get your speed just right and keep the boat straight while slipping slowly downstream.

As our boat held steady in the current, we let out our lines: seven passes of the level wind with the two rods off the back of the boat, and five passes on the two side rods. This staggering maintains separation and avoids tangles.

Once the rods were out, he adjusted the throttle so our boat would slide downstream at a very slow pace, five to 10 feet per minute. At this speed, it usually takes 10 to 20 minutes to cover an average-size pool.

Now it was time to sit back, sip more coffee, try not to eat too many donuts and enjoy the spring morning.

The most popular back-trolling setup, for good reason, is a two-piece, 8 1/2-foot long casting rod rated for 10- to 20-pound lines. Because back-trolling rods sit in the rod holder most of the time, they needn’t be fancy.

I purchased mine used at the Lamiglas factory outlet. After years of use, the handle gets stained with egg dye, and at least half the guides are slightly bent, but the rod blank is in good shape. It’s a fish catcher!

David uses G-Loomis HSR981-C fast-action rods rated for 10- to 20-pound lines. Whatever rod you choose, if it’s rated for 10- to 20-pound lines, it will probably work well.

Completing the setup is a level-wind casting reel filled with 25-pound-test monofilament line. The Ambassadeur 6000 series are perfect.

For back-trolling, monofilament line is preferable to braided Spectra lines. That mono’s stretchiness helps convert more bites into solid hookups because it gives a little, allowing a fish to take it in its mouth for a moment or two longer before the line goes tight. Also, if you’re running more than one rod behind the boat and your lines tangle up, monofilament is much easier to untangle.

Your diver can be rigged either “solid” or “sliding,” but most anglers would agree that sliding is better. Here’s how to do it. Start by threading a plastic slider on your mainline. Next, thread on an 8 mm plastic bead, then a 1/2-inch length of plastic spinner tubing, which seats itself against the swivel and protects the knot. Cinch-knot a bead-chain swivel to the end of the main line.

Now it’s time to tie up a leader. Start with a 6-foot length of 25-pound monofilament. Using an egg loop knot, tie on a 3/0 octopus hook. After the hook knot is done, slide on a small red Corky as a bearing, then a No. 8 Spin-N-Glo winged bobber.

The color of the Spin-N-Glo you choose is not critical for success. But to keep the odds stacked in your favor, it’s a good idea to check your local tackle shop for the hot colors.

Tie the leader to the bead-chain swivel, which should end up about five feet long.

The rod is now rigged and ready to store in your boat. On the water, clip a jet diver to the plastic slider, and you’re ready to fish.